Foil Shaver or Open Razor
Published on 5th February '19Q: Why do we use different tools to achieve the same result?
A: The answer is that both tools produce what seems like the same effect but there are minor differences. Let us explain…...
The Skin Fade:
Across Instagram you’ll see barbers using the open razor and the foil shaver to produce skin-fades. When using the open razor it is common to use something like elegance gel which is a clear shave gel. This method produces a clean result and is satisfying to watch. The other way of getting down to skin is with a modern foil shaver. This machine is used without any gel or skin preparation, the skin must be clean and dry.
Hot Towel Shaves and Edging up:
When taking stubble down to skin on the face we most commonly see the open razor being used. This is especially popular for edging up facial hair as it gives the barber clean edges. Many people use domestic foil shavers at home for their own face but these are rarely used in a barber shop for facial hair.
Pros and cons of using a razor:
The razor has long been essential in the barber shop for shaves and edging work. It takes the hair right down to the surface of the skin. For edging up work on beards it works perfectly as the barber can see and make clean lines with the razor. The open razor is perfect for facial hair.
On head hair however the open razor is at a disadvantage to the foil shaver. Preparation means putting gloves on, applying shave gel to the head, and often the head hair is kept longer before shaving. This means little bumps are not so visible, multiple passes of an open blade can cause skin irritation and because the blade glides on the surface of the skin it will only cut across what is sticking out of the follicle. The thin-ness of the blade also has an effect on how close the overall finish is.
Pros and cons of the Foil Shaver
In recent times the professional foil shaver has become a must have tool in every barber shop. On head hair it has simplified the skin fade dramatically. There is no need to wear gloves when working with a foil shaver as the risk of a minor cut or abrasion is non existent. The tiny holes on the head of the shaver mean the only thing that will cut is the shortest of stubble, even on the softest skin. The foil shaver also pushes down on the scalp which causes the hair to slightly protrude from the follicle. The result is a closer than zero finish. Cleaning a foil shaver is simple and quick, simply remove the head of the shaver, remove all hair debris and spray liberally with clippercide.
Unfortunately everything has its place and the foil shaver is not well suited to facial hair. Whilst it is again a very close shave it doesnt give the kind of accurate finish an open razor can offer. Further to that the open razor is often used in conjunction with products that leave the client feeling fresh and clean, such as a hot towel, pre shave oil and post shave balm. The foil must be used dry so skin prep isn’t possible on most occasions.
Conclusion
Foil shavers should be kept to the scalp and open razors kept to the face. These rules aren’t strict but most barbers tend to stick to them out of preference. The difference is small but it is there, good barbers always Chop!_ with the right tool.
Article written by: Michael Holm