What product to use for styling men's hair
Published on 20th October '20How do you choose the correct product for your Hairstyle?
With so many different products on the market now, choosing the right type of product for your style isn't easy. Most supermarkets and chemists have at least an aisle filled with different hair products. Many of the products out there do a version of the same thing to varying degrees. In this article we will weigh up the pros and cons of different types of product and when to use them. The most common products people use are covered here with our handy table at the bottom just to help you further decide which product is right for your hair.
The most common products men use
Wax
Wax has long been the easy, go to product for mens styling. You might have three or four varying degrees of hold. Wax is ideal for short hair. Anything longer than eyebrow length and a lighter product would be more suitable. Wax suits short hair because of the strong hold factor it generally has. Popular brands would include VO5, Bed Head and Dax Wax, while less popular but of a higher quality would be proffesional brands such as OSMO, Fudge and Red One. There really is a huge choice out there.
How to use Wax
A small amount should be spread all over the hands and worked into the hair taking care to make sure it is worked through evenly. Hair should then be styled into place with a comb and or fingers. Depending on the hold factor of the wax your hair may need hairspray also, unless it is a collapsed look you want. More on hairspray further down.
Gel
Gel was once the most common product men used (back in 1995) however in recent times gel has drifted into obscurity. A water based high hold product which is ideally suited to short hair. Gel will set hard when it dries but often has the downside of becoming flaky when moved out of position. Gel can be found in either high or low hold with the rule of thumb being, the thinner your hair the lighter the gel.
How to use Gel
Gel can be used in damp or dry hair depending on the density of the product. Something like Goldwell Lagoom Jam can style straight into wet hair due to its density. Where as American crew gel (the worst) which is very light would be best suited to dry hair. To apply spread a small amount of gel across hands and apply evenly from root to tip.
Unofficial but correct Gel use from start to finish
Open the Gel, tip it into the bin. Recycle the container. Realise it's not 1995 and go get something more current like matt clay.
Pomade
Pomade often occupies the middle ground between Gel and Wax. Pomades can be either water based or wax based, but are known for creating a very high shine finish. Wax based pomade remains flexible in the hair where as a water based pomade would solidify. Pomade comes in a variety of densities and there are a plethora of manufacturers to choose from. These include OSMO, Dapper Dan, Uppercut, Ruezal, Bed Head, Layrite and many more. All claim to have their own properties so it is advised to experiment with a few and find the right one for you. Pomade is great for different textures and high shine control. In recent years it has drowned out wax and gel due to its versatility.
How to use Pomade
Put a small amount onto the palms and rub together. Some pomades are very thick so can take a bit of working, wax based pomade will become easier to work as its heated in the hands. Apply all over the hair from root to tip. then style to suit. Many gents styles are very short on the side. If this is the case there is no need to apply product to those areas.
Clay
Clay products have seen their popularity rise over the last few years, due to a desire for low shine, matt looks. Clay again can be wax or water based, but as opposed to the previous products it provides a dull finish and are ideally suited to short hair. Many Clay products have an alkaline consistency which lifts the hair cuticle (the scales of the hair shaft) this causes the hair to look duller. Another way to open the cuticle is to heat the hair with a hairdryer and this is often used in conjunction with waterbased clay. By styling in this manner you will find the shine becomes non existant as water is dried out of the product and the cuticle begins to look dull. Hair will return to normal when the product is washed out.
How to use Clay
Put a small amount in to the hands and rub together until its all over the palms and fingers then work through the hair into the desired style or if using a water based clay, pick up a hairdryer and dry whilst styling to create a very dry strong hold finish.
Salt Spray
Salt Spray is very simmilar to Clay but is probably more suited to longer hair. This product is used to create a dry beach type look. Because it is of a lighter consistency, often in a spray bottle it doesnt set quite as hard as Clay and can be easily applied.
How to use Salt Spray
Salt spray is sprayed in all over the hair and either left to dry natuarally or dried in with a hairdryer. By drying it in there is more control achivied by blowdrying in the desired direction. The hair can be reworked throughout the day as it remains flexible.
Powder
Nothing has made such an impact on mens styling in recent years quite like powder. With dry looks becoming very popular the humble powder has come out from its hiding place to become the most popular hair product in barbershops up and down the country. Hair powder is the driest product on the market. Brands you could find would be Affinage, Osmo, Got2B, IQ, Gorilla and many more. These powders started life as a product for creating root lift (big hair) but they have found their way into mens hair with incredible popularity. Anyone who has used it will realise it doesn't wash out easily, often needing two washes. But for dry styles it is unrivaled. It can be used to give lift to longer styles or create highly textured short styles.
How to use powder
Most powders come in a shaker with holes, like a salt shaker. Simply shake all over the hair like you are salting food. Then rub the powder into the hair. The more the powder is worked the more textured the hair becomes.
Hair Spray
Hair spray has been on the go since the dinosaurs. It has to be the most recognised hair product on earth. You will find it everywhere. But is it the right thing to be putting in mens hair? Hair spray or laquer as it's also known is used to set hair quickly in the style you have created. It has its place but isnt for everyone. For instance hairspray may not lend itself to longer styles on men. Anyone looking for a flexible style which they like to run a hand through during the day should also vere away from the hairspray can. Other styles though which you may want to sit exactly as you've styled them all day would be perfect for hairspray.
How to apply Hairspray
Hold the can about 30 centimeters from the head and spray onto the desired area (this does not need to be every hair). It is advisable to hold a hand or shield infront of your face to avoid getting spray in the eyes or onto skin.
Conclusion
Trial and error is often the best way to find the best product for your hair. Remember, all the products we have talked about here will wash out. So have a go with a few different products and styles or even speak to your barber. The barber is always happy to offer advice on styling and product choice. If your hair isn't suited to one product, don't worry as there is another product which is just right for you. Below is our helpful table just to recap on what length of hair each product suits.
| Short | Mid Length | Long | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Volume Powder (Dry) | Good | Good | Good |
| Salt Spray (Dull finish) | Not suitable | Good | Good |
| Pomade (Wet High Shine) | Good | OK for light use | Too Heavy |
| Matt Clay (Dull finish) | Good | OK for light use | Use salt spray instead |
| Wax (Wet High Shine) | Good | OK for light use | Too heavy |
| Hair Spray | Good | Good | Good |
| Gel (1995 finish) | Don't do it!_ | Don't do it!_ | Don't do it!_ |
Article written by: Michael Holm